Month: October 2021

October 19, 2021

Caring for Elderly Guinea Pigs: Common Old Age Problems and How to Support Them

Article by Wiebke Wiese Thomas for Guinea Pig Magazine Issue 59

Sadly, there comes a time when even the healthiest guinea pigs feel the effects of age, as their once-speedy metabolism begins to work against them. While in wild populations a few guinea pigs may live up to 8 years, they are very much the exception. The average life expectancy is around 3 years. Nature hasn’t accounted for the excellent care many domestic guinea pigs now receive, which sees their average lifespan extend to about 5–7 years, and occasionally even 10. More than that is extremely rare.

Your good care – especially a mainly grass hay/fresh grass-based diet (close to their natural diet), with leafy green veg and fresh herbs – can help boost their lifespan by another year or two, often helping them reach the upper end of the average range. But sadly, it cannot extend it indefinitely. Sudden illness or significant health problems can arise at any age and are often beyond our control and veterinary help.

How Are Your Guinea Pigs Experiencing Old Age?

It’s important to remember that guinea pigs don’t have a concept of an average lifespan. That’s a human idea. Guinea pigs live in the moment, it’s the quality of each day that counts for them, not the number of days.

When we focus on making each day a good one instead of worrying about how many they might have, we can’t go far wrong as owners. Guinea pigs recognise and respect older companions, as long as they can keep up with the group and aren’t showing signs of infectious illness. Older pigs are valued for their experience and their potential knowledge of extra resources, something that may help the group in times of crisis.

Older guinea pigs are often comfortable in themselves. They know who they are and have nothing more to prove. They usually recognise love and a good life when they see it and are happy to accept and appreciate the good things that come their way.

Sometimes, a dominant leader may be pushed from their position by a younger pig rising through the ranks when the older pig is no longer able to maintain control. This often coincides with illness or a major health issue, and the older pig may show an increase in dominant behaviour in the lead-up – aware they’re losing strength but not yet ready to let go.

If illness or surgery creates a temporary leadership gap, the next pig in line may step up hesitantly to maintain group stability. If they grow into the role and don’t want to relinquish it, this can lead to fall-outs, especially in adult groups. However, if the older pig is well loved and respected, the transition can be gentle and filled with affection.

Very old sows often become more willing to accept companionship again, especially when no longer interested in leading. Even if they haven’t always lived together, familiar pigs usually remember where they stand with one another. Some may need longer to feel secure, especially if they sense the other is stronger, but even next-door company can help keep their spirits high. It can genuinely add years to a piggy’s life!

Older boars past 4–5 years, whose testosterone has faded, often mellow and are far more accepting of male company than in their hormone-driven younger days.

When leadership is no longer a concern, companionship often comes before dominance. That said, guinea pigs are individuals. Some will hold grudges, and some older pigs may still struggle with companionship after the loss of a mate. Sometimes this is down to personality; sometimes it’s due to earlier life experiences. If you’re unsure, contact a rescue for advice. Many welfare-conscious rescues are now aware of the growing need to find suitable matches for single senior guinea pigs.

Common Old Age Problems

Sadly, old age rarely comes alone. For many guinea pigs, the ageing process begins around 4–5 years, though some remain sprightly well beyond that. Like humans, guinea pigs don’t age uniformly, biological age doesn’t always match calendar age.

Signs of old age vary widely between individuals, but most piggies live between 4–9 years, with 5–7 covering the bulk. Some pass young due to genetic issues, illness, neglect, or breeding complications, while others seem to age more gracefully. Still, time catches up eventually.

You may notice:

  • Muscles sagging, with hip bones and later the spine becoming more prominent
  • Gradual weight loss, especially if fat reserves suddenly disappear in previously overweight pigs

Older guinea pigs should be checked by a vet at least annually, or every 6 months if possible. Any significant weight loss (50–100g or more, depending on how fast it happens) should be investigated promptly.

The ageing process in guinea pigs is fast-forward compared to humans. Typical age-related issues include:

  • Increased sleeping/deep sleep
  • Less efficient circulation and reduced body fat
  • Mobility issues like arthritis or back leg paralysis (these can have causes other than calcium drops and should be seen by a vet)
  • Urine scald from sitting in droppings
  • Increased risk of foot infections (bumblefoot)
  • Inability to groom properly, especially the back end, raising the risk of flystrike—even indoors
  • Impaction in older boars (about 10%), where weakened muscles prevent proper expulsion of caecotrophs
  • Ovarian cysts in older sows – fluid-filled or hard and sometimes cancerous
  • Eye changes: cataracts, nuclear sclerosis, or osseous metaplasia (where bony material replaces soft tissue around the iris). All significant eye changes should be vet-checked.

Caring for Your Elderly Guinea Pigs

  • Older pigs may have more sensitive digestion
  • They need stable temperatures and access to warmth (with the option to move away if desired)
  • They’re more vulnerable during heatwaves – heat spikes can be especially dangerous
  • Weekly body and weight checks are essential, increasing to daily during illness or when needed
  • Ensure easy access to hay and water, especially for pigs struggling to lift their heads or move freely
  • Offer a little extra food like oats or recovery mix if weight drops despite medication
  • Keep bedding clean, warm, and regularly changed
  • Stick to a consistent daily routine and offer appropriate enrichment to maintain interest and joy in life

Guinea pigs may not measure life in years, but in good days and with your care, you can help make each one count.

October 18, 2021

Alternative bedding for guinea pigs

Article and photographs by Laura Humphreys RHA/Assistant Editor

Alternative beddings (material or fabric bedding) is the collective term for the material-based beddings you wouldn’t typically associate with guinea pigs; This article is written based on my eight years’ experience with using this type of bedding. There are two main beddings that fit into this classification – fleece and Vetbed. Information on the specific uses of each is given later in this article, but first, the basic pros and cons of using an alternative bedding, as below:

It is important to remember that alternative beddings can really only be used for piggies that live indoors, or those living in a specially designed temperature con-trolled shed; alternative beddings are not advised for use in outdoor hutches as these piggies require stacks of hay to keep them warm… hay on top of fleece or Vetbed isn’t the best combination! 

Prior to the first use, run your new fleece or Vetbed through the washing machine at least 2-3 times. Brand new unwashed beddings don’t work with moisture as effectively as bedding that has been“broken in” by washing. Never Use any fabric softener/conditioner when washing beddings as this reduces the bedding’s ability to wick urine. 

You should cut the bedding to size after these initial washes, and always allow an additional two to three inches of bedding(minimum) on all sides to accommodate any shrinkage associated with long term use. It is recommended that you buy at least 2 or 3 full sets of your bedding so that you can immediately replace the old bedding with fresh rather than having to wait to wash and dry a single set. 

Under-beddings

Under-beddings are important to use with alternative beddings because fleece and Vetbed themselves are not absorbent. As moisture is wicked right through the fleece, or in the case of Vetbed down through the Vetbed to its base/backing, the moisture needs to be absorbed by something at this point to prevent any pooling of urine and to allow more moisture to wick through, keeping the surface continually dry. Favoured under-beddings are bath towels/sheets, or mattress “incontinence pads”. Newspaper is inadequate as an under-bedding when using fleece – although it can work relatively well withVetbed– and puppy training pads are also very limited in their efficacy. 

Feeding Hay

Guinea pigs still need free access to ample amounts of fresh, loose stranded hay as part of their daily dietary requirements. It is inevitable that hay will betracked across the fleece, but it need not be spread to the point there is a layer of hay over the entire fleece. Using correx or large litter trays, create a feeding zone within the cage: a section that is not made up with fleece or Vetbed, but with newspaper, hay and – if desired– a traditional bedding. 

A small lip (no higher than two inches) on the correx or litter tray will help minimise hay being dragged back into the fleece/Vetbed area.Preparing to WashThere will be poops, hair and usually hayon the surface of the fleece or Vetbed, all of which need removing prior to washing in the machine. You could choose to vacuum the debris up prior to removing the bedding from the cage, and/or you might choose to fold everything up inside the fleece to Vetbed and shake everything off into a bin or outside before washing.

When shaking outside, ensure you give the bedding a thorough shake, beat it all over with the back of a dustpan brush to loosen things a little more, and brush it all over to get rid of the worst of the waste. It won’t be completely clear, but the aim is to at least get all the loose debris and all larger pieces(strands of hay and all the poops) off. While many owners wash their fleece,Vetbed and underbeddings in the machineas normal, many others choose instead to place all their piggy washing inside a pil-lowcase, duvet cover or specially-designed wash bag’ to protect their machine from any remaining debris on the bedding.

Alternative beddings are vastly better than traditional beddings when a guinea pig is ill, whatever illness the pig is suffering. Fleece and Vetbed wick urine through to the under-bedding leaving the surface dry,they are soft on all areas of the pigs body,can be washed and replaced very frequently at no extra cost, allow for monitoring of particular symptoms (e.g. blood in urine, or leakage of a wound), and do not act as skin or respiratory irritants.If a guinea pig with either a parasitic or fungal problem is bedded on fleece or Vetbed,simply soak the bedding and under-bedding for one hour in a Virkon solution followed by a wash in the machine as usual. 

Individual Bedding Reviews

Beddings are reviewed by: a) cost and availability, and b) washing.

Fleece 

a) Availability: 

You can buy fleece from many different types of outlets – fabric stores, art and craft shops, homeware departments, even supermarkets. Search for fleece throws or blankets, or if buying from a fabric store or buying online, choose to buy fleece by the metre according to how much you require. Fleece will not readily be cut to size, but it is very easy to trim to the exact size and shape you need for your cages.

There are a few different fleece types to choose from. The smooth and flat polar fleece is the type usually recommended and used. Anti-pill is another very popular one; it does not bobble after heavy use and years of washing, unlike polar fleece which can bobble a little a few years down the line. Sherpa fleece tends to be best used in-side cosies and cuddle cups rather than as the bedding – its surface tends to be more like Vetbed in texture, bobbly, soft and atouch fluffier than polar and anti-pill. 

Cost: Depending on where you buy your fleece from, and how much is required, it can cost as little as £10 to acquire two cage sets for 2x4ft cage.

b) Washing Advice:

Wash all fleece at 60°C for a thorough cleaning. Use a biological or non-biological detergent. Avoid any strongly scented detergents. Never use fabric softener/conditioner. 

Vetbed 

a) Availability:

Vetbed is widely available in pet shops locally, on the high street, and online. It is not always primarily marketed as a bedding for small animals, instead it is advertised for use with dogs, but it is a very popular bedding for guinea pigs too. Petlife International market the original Vetbed. Over the years a few Vetbed alternatives have come onto the market, especially online; some of these have worked and lasted better than others so if you want quality guaranteed, it’s worth investing in the original Vetbed by Petlife.

Cost: Vetbed costs are typically muchhigher than fleece. For two cage sets to fita 2x4ft cage, expect to pay no less than£40, often more. However,Vetbed is known to last as long as a decade, so still proves to be a highly cost effective bedding.

b) Washing Advice:

The original Vetbed by Petlife can be washed at 90°C. For all other Vetbed materials, and for routine washing, 60°C is appropriate for a thorough cleaning. Use a biological or non-biological detergent. Avoid any strongly scented detergents. Never use fabric softener/conditioner.

Final Words – Opinions on Alternative Beddings

Reading the behaviour of guinea pigs should be the rule as far as human opiniones. The large majority of guinea pigs love alternative beddings: popcorning and doing ‘zoomies’ is a very common sight for pigs new to it, and many favour sleeping on fleece bedding or Vetbed, or cosies, when given the choice between that and a traditional bedding. 

Hay obviously needs to be given ad lib and as proven in this article, this is easily achieved.  Beyond that whether you try alternative beddings for your piggies is down to your personal situation (cage size, number of piggies, access to your own washing machine and outdoor area, your own time commitments etc.). 

Things may seem a little tricky to understand in the immediate term, but as soon as you have mastered the routine of this type of bedding, it becomes time effective as well as financially cost effective. I currently have five 2×5 C&C cages occupied and it takes less than an hour to do a full cleanout, even with the residents of each cage “helping” with the process.